The Venice Biennale (53rd this time), as always, greeted us with the faces of global decadence and greed (among others) and confirmed our lingering suspicion that material culture belongs to the rich. Immense yachts, billionaires, beautiful women, and parties, parties everywhere.
Big yachts bring big people...
Party on a Russian yacht by SaluteFor three days, Venice was swamped with art collectors, gallerists and other art-related professionals and amateurs.


By the canal, the second day of the previewOn June Six, the results of the art race were announced in the Giardini: the best pavilion was American (Bruce Naumann), the best artist – Tobias Rheberger, the best young artist – Sophie Joubert. Career achievements went to John Baldessari and Yoko Ono.
Our view differed from that of the jury. Here is our choice:
The best national pavillions:1)
CzechoslovakiaThe best pavilion of the 53 Biennale as it illustrates the futility of art, and any human effort for that matter; by Roman Ondak. The inside looks like the outside, the same trees and grass, reminded us of the ruins of Pompei (or any other ruins). Melancholic and straight to the point.

2)
HungaryEerie film installation by Peter Forgacs (curated by Andras Renyi), made of the documentary footage from WWII with references to Baroque painting.

3)
DenmarkImaginative, witty and well executed: Elmgreen&Dragset, Nina Saunders, Jani Leinonen
4)
TurkeyMiniature reconstruction of buildings targeted by terrorists all over the world since 1998. Makes sense.
5)
FinlandThe Fire Museum by Jucy Kiwi – a lot of fun starting with the artist’s name.
We also like the British pavilion. The American pavilion was ok, Bruce Naumann is a sure value, although frankly, it was not the best pavillion The best one was the Czech pavilion, but its statement was too metaphysical for the nouveau riches (who sponsor the venerable Biennale) to grasp. Serbian pavilion had a good video installation (people lip-sincing Beatles songs)
The worst national pavilions:1) Japan
2) Germany
3) Greece
4) Iran
5) China
May be there are other horrible national pavilions, we didn’t have a chance to see all of them, so our list is based on what we had time to see. Liam Gillick, in the German Pavillion, with his piece “Conversation with a kitchen cat” particularly irritated us – it took Liam a year to conceive and build 20 meter long wooden box and place a stuffed cat on the top of it. The fact that it was supposed to be an anti-fascist piece and the dead cat was supposed to talk (very cynical, Liam, dead cats can't talk, no more than dead Michael Jackson can sing) didn't save it from being very lame.
The French Pavillion was boring and sad too, even though Leveque did some great work before.
The Russian Pavilion did not impress us either: with seven artists in a small three story building it was simply overcrowded, like a communal apartment (ah, that eternal "housing issue" or
kvartirny vopros as Bulgakov once remarked) . Besides, it lacked any underlying concept. And as the show opened, the pavillion’s curator Olga Sviblova censored one of the artists, Andrei Molodkin, by taking down the captions of his oil/blood installations: the oil was designated as Chechen and blood, as Russian. Sviblova found this politically incorrect. Olga Sviblova is, of course, known for making politically correct shows, like the well-intended, but incredibly lame “Click I hope” installation (52 Biennale).
The Best Artist Prize went to Tobias Rehberger. Rehberger was the author of a flashy/ugly looking caféteria in the Biennale pavilion in Giardini. Later that day, I run into Boris G. at the Arsenal building who, upon learning that Rehberger won the best prize, remarked that Rehberger was a good friend of Daniel Birnbaum, chief curator of this year’s Biennale, so the choice wasn’t at all surprising.
Art lover in front of Pistoletto's Mirror installation, Arsenal.There were plenty of good works – like Tony Conrad, Makarevich, Dario Escobar, etc.
The best group show was the Arsenal' Making Worlds. This year it was much more minimalists and had less (almost none) of the pseudo-political mumbo-jumbo that defined past few biennale.

Incredible amount of info junk. By the end of the third day our apartment was filled with press releases, flyers, sealed catalogues, brochures, cd’s, etc
On June 7, the Biennale lost its aura of exclusivity, the in-crowd vanished and the the atmosphere of boredom had set.
All the freebies were gone, the attendant of the Russian pavilion tried to sell me Art Khronika for 10 (!) euros – the day before it was free. Beautiful people moved to Art Basel. Bienalle was no longer the exciting place to be, it had turned into another spectacle for the popoli… Or at least it had the pretension to create that illusion.
Giardini, June 6th.